Scrap Bag Sampler Week 9 – FPP Log Cabin

 

Foundation Paper Pieced Log Cabin by @Lisasew

 

This week it’s the lovely Lisa and her beginner friendly FPP Log Cabin block… I’ll leave you in her capable hands to explain! You can download the pattern here!

I’ll cover the basics of the foundation paper piecing (FPP) technique. I find this works really well when using very small pieces to give a really accurate finish.

This block is a great way to start FPP, so whether this is your first time at FPP, you will hopefully find this an easy introduction to it, or if you are a bit more experienced you will know that this will give you a nice crisp block.

What you will need:

 1.25” minimum square (centre piece)

A variety of fabric strips a minimum of 1.5” wide, and up to 4.5” long*

Printed template

Thread

A light box can be helpful (I don’t use one most of the time)

Pre sewing instructions:

Print out your template, make sure you print at 100%. Print on the cheapest printer paper you have as the thinner it is the easier it is to rip out at the end.

Reduce your stitch length, I usually use about 1.5. The stitches need to be small to  secure as you rip out the papers at the end. They act like a perforation in the paper.

When you are sewing, the template will be facing upwards so you can see the image and the fabrics will be underneath.

Select your fabrics, I have used a contrast of low volume prints and scrappy colours. You can use any colour combination but I recommend a contrast to give you definition in the block.

 

Here you can see a pink & blue combination as an example.

Begin Sewing:

Take piece one and place it so that it covers the block A1 on the reverse side of the template. The piece will lay with the wrong side on the paper and the right side facing out. Make sure that you have a seam allowance covering all the lines around A1. I secure this with a pin running along the line between A1 & A2.

Flip over the template and then with fabrics RST (right sides together), place A2 so raw edges cover seam allowance over A1/A2. Here I readjust my pin from the pattern side to secure A2 to A1.

If you pin along the line you will be sewing then you can flip A2 to double check it will cover the area it is meant to, including the overhang to seam allowances.

Sew along the line. I like to start a bit before the actual line and carry on beyond. If you do this there is no need to lock the stitches here as the next round of pieces will secure these pieces.

Before I do any trimming I press the piece open and hold to the light again to double check it has covered the right space. (When doing trickier angles than we have here it is easy to misjudge the angle and find it needs moving).

When I’m happy it is correct, I fold A2 back to its sewing position to trim the seam allowance of A1 & A2. Normally I would trim back to ¼” but as this is quite small I would go just a little narrower than that, to avoid bulk. Then replace A 2 back to its pressed position.

Piece A1 is the only piece we place facing out, all the remaining pieces are now added in number order in just the same way we added A2.

Take A3, and place RST over the line covering A1/A3 and Pin from the pattern side. Again flip over the fabric to double check it is going to cover the area A3, then if happy, sew along the line. Press, check and trim seam allowance.

Continue until the block is complete.

I trim the block down making sure the final block measures 4 ½” and I would normally leave the papers in until I am ready to attach to the next block. If you find the block is an eighth of an inch smaller than 4 1/2 “ just square it up as you will have enough excess fabric on this final round.

Watch my stories on Instagram as I will have some more pictures on the pattern release and maybe a video if I dare! Good Luck, and thanks for joining us sewing along. Lisa

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